August 17-19, 2014
8/17/14 - 8/19/14 65 °F
We loved the Mosel Valley so much we couldn’t resist visiting the Rhine River Valley as well. It was supposed to be a 3 hour drive us to ——- but we detoured in Heidelburg and got lost so it ended up taking closer to 5 or 6 hours. The small town of St. Goar is smack dab in the center of the Rhine and a perfect takeoff point to visit the other towns via ferry or car. There is a gorgeous castle just across the water from the hotel we stayed at: Hotel An de Fahre (which translates to On The Ferry).
St. Goar by day:
St. Goar by night:
The hotel An de Fahre (45 Euros/night) is in a super convenient waterfront location just next to the ferry station. We totally fell in love with the owners Max and Alyssea! He’s German and she’s from Kazakstan (the first person we’ve ever met from there!) We got to know them over a couple of beers and blog writing in the hotel lounge. They were super sweet and did everything to make our stay as comfortable as possible. The beds were soft, the bathrooms spotless! We would definitely stay there again. We were spoiled by Alyssea’s home cooked breakfast (which was included in our room rate). Super delicious food with huge portions big enough to fill yourself up for the entire day. They also treated us to a lovely home-cooked barbecue which was really special for us (especially after being on the road for so long). We are really looking forward to going back to the area to see Max and Alyssea! They lent us their local guidebook so we could explore the area. . . . and explore we did:
We drove to the adjacent small town of Bacharach and found a path to hike up the steep vineyards for a view of Rhine. WOW!
I thought Ruby was going to have a heart attack as I chose to hang precariously on the hillside to take some of these grapevine shots!
Bacharach is pretty adorable with a village type feel. . .
While walking around we found a great Greek restaurant called Zeus. It was authentic and super delicious. The ouzo shots at the beginning were a nice surprise We had the pork plate, zucchini and tzatziki and are still thinking about it today. The chef is actually Greek and his wife is German which explains why the food was so good!
On the way back from Bacharach we saw a huge rainbow across the Rhine and it was super close to the famous rock called Loreley which is a grey cliff that towers 433 feet above the Rhine. Legend has it that this was the most dangerous section of the River Rhine during the middle ages and the spot where the mythic siren Loreley used to sit atop the cliff combing her hair. Her beauty and singing would lure sailors to their deaths on the cliff below:
On our last day in St. Goar we drove through another town called Braubach and enjoyed views of another gorgeous castle.
Our friend Phil Raffa had nominated Ruby and I for the ALS Ice Bucket Challenge. It was much harder to find ice than one would think—for future reference, in Germany, only specific gas stations sell ice (not grocery stores) and it’s expensive for ice! We ended up completing the challenge in Kobern-Gondorf one of our other favorite little towns.
We were sad to leave the Rhine River Valley but we got on the road for our six hour drive North to Hamburg by the early afternoon.